Showing posts with label Rhododendron. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Rhododendron. Show all posts

Friday, May 17, 2013

Rendezvous with Rhododendrons #4 – Barsey beckoning!



I know, my posts have been sporadic for a while. Life has been trying as much as possible to shear me away from my blog, but I stubbornly stick to my commitment to tend to my baby (blog, I mean! My biological baby isn’t a baby anymore, he is a little boy). It is still taking baby steps, so nurturing it is of prime importance to me. Once in a while, it becomes a little overwhelming, but I manage to successfully overwhelm the overwhelming feeling!

So, where was I?  Yes, I went to bed that night in Sherpa Lodge, Okhrey, dreaming of dancing amidst Rhododendrons.  Did that happen? Did I really dance amidst those lovely flowers? Read on.

I still vividly remember that morning. The birds were still waking up. The cold mountain air and fog was still holding the beautiful valley below in its wraps. The orange ball was yet to make its appearance in the horizon. That was when I stepped out of my room, bundled in layers of warm clothing, clutching my camera to get that glorious first shot of the sunrise, as is always my habit wherever I go.  I held my head high, feeling a little proud that I was the first to wake up, that I’m going to be the only one to witness the gorgeous sunrise.  As I marched outside the lodge, in search of the most appropriate location to perch my camera, I heard him.

“Hey, sunrise dekhnaa hai? Yahaan se mast dikhtaa hai. aao!”

Someone poked a pin into my ballooned pride and enthusiasm. I scornfully looked at who that intruder was. He was the person, who stayed in the neighbouring room and it was his second day at Okhrey. He obviously knew better. I reluctantly dragged myself to the spot where he was standing. There wasn’t any time for my grumpiness showcase. The sun was already rising. 



Soon, my fellow travellers joined me. We had our morning tea, entrusted our bags to the trustworthy Sherpa and set off to Barsey. Joining us on our journey was our guide, Mr. Hissay Gyatso Sherpa. We drove up to Hiley, which is the entry point to Barsey Rhododendron Sanctuary. Mr. Sherpa had arranged for our breakfast at Hiley. After devouring the yummy Poori-Sabzi, we set off on our trek.  

Wild berries
  





Air moss


Lichens


Having Mr. Hissay trek with us was the best part of the trek. Armed with a Himalayan birdwatching guidebook, he helped us spot every little bird that flew by, helped identify every exotic plant that we beheld on our way and helped understand the locals and their ways. He also provided insights into the problems plaguing the sanctuary – such as the heavy influx of local tourists during festival season and the consequential littering, thereby disrupting peace in the jungle. He also briefed us about how the supplies to the forest guesthouse are transported in the absence of connectivity. Sherpas, naturally have great lungpower and a number of them double up as porters to transport the groceries and provisions uphill, offering to carry them on their backs for a paltry sum of three hundred rupees. Tough lives.

Mr. Hissay, our trek guide

After a couple of hours trekking, spotting Magpies, sunbirds and the exotic(?) Himalayan crows(no luck with spotting the elusive Red Pandas though) and learning to tell the difference between Rhododendron Barbatum/Rhododendron Arboreum and Grande/Falconeri, we reached the forest guesthouse, ‘Guras Kunj’. There wasn’t much of literature on the net about this place, hence I wasn’t sure what to expect. However, what I saw was beyond my expectations. It was an elegant wooden cottage with basic facilities, but the location was simply stunning. Painted green and standing amidst raging-red-fire like Rhododendron blooms, it seemed lifted straight from a fairy tale. Probably the most romantic of all places I’ve been to, ever.
‘Guras Kunj’ is basically a dormitory. It has one big hall which can accommodate 20 travellers easily. There is also one double bedroom with attached bath, which needs to be pre-booked. However, pre-booking is tricky as it is a herculean task to reach the owner’s mobile phone. Hence, you have to be lucky to have that room. And not to mention, we were incredibly lucky that day. 

Guras Kunj, the forest guesthouse


That evening was one to remember. I lay down on the cool grass, watching the clouds penning poetry, listened to the whistles of the wind, admired the stark color contrast of the ravens and rhododendrons, peeped into a rhodo flower, witnessed a hailstorm at 10000+ feet, snuggled up and watched ‘As good as it gets’, invaded the kitchen, dished out some French fries for us as well as the cooks and much more. In short, I had the time of my life that day. Never before, had I felt so emancipated. Every mountain in the vicinity seemed to echo my excitement.



Raven and the Rhododendrons
Rhododendron Grande
That evening, I also had to prepare myself for the last bit of the trek – the steep climb to the Barsey point/Sunrise point and back. Why prepare, you may ask. Well, I have a weakness that I hate to admit, that any self-confessed traveller would hate to admit – I am scared of heights. The minute I look down from a height, vertigo engulfs me and bogs me down.  However, I constantly try to work on my weaknesses. From being scared of climbing railway over bridges, I’ve come a long way - I’ve parasailed, climbed temple hills, done one day hill treks etc. However, mountains still manage to scare me out of my wits. I just can’t walk over a ridge or look from over a cliff. And this last part of the trip had both. I just had my fingers crossed.
Dear reader, please let me gather myself to come back and narrate the rest of the story. Till then, hold on and stay tuned.



Monday, May 13, 2013

Skywatch Friday #8 - a lone tree in the sky!

Here is a lone tree, shrouded in clouds and fog. Standing tall at 10000 feet, this is a Rhododenron tree in full bloom. Rhododendron si the state flower of the Indian state of Sikkim. These flowers are in full bloom for just two months a year - March and April. This tree lives in the Barsey Rhododendron Sanctuary in West Sikkim, India.


Saturday, April 27, 2013

Rendezvous with Rhododendrons #3 - Oh you, Okhrey!


It has been crippling to not be writing as often as I should be during the past week. A mere one week feels like a lifetime. Calling this my blog has now become an understatement, it is my baby, my heartchild (as opposed to a brainchild :D) And the privilege of not giving my readers yet another slice of Sikkim isn't helping my conscience much too. So here goes the third part, after all that much needed ado.

Ah, yes Okhrey!!! Let me pause here. Guess what, am just taking a moment to revisit the beauty so that I can paint an accurate picture. Imagine this – A little asphalted road winding through a hill dotted with rhododendron blooms, a quaint village with barely 10 households, a steep hill adjacent to the village, atop which is perched a little school. Throw in some plants and cute people here and there and that completes the picture. That’s exactly what Okhrey is. It is a tiny sleepy hamlet in some unimaginably remote corner of India; so remote that you cannot even find it in the Sikkim map! A cartographer not knowing it doesn’t make it any less beautiful – it is in fact as tranquil as it can get,  yet in the realm of civilization.

Most people here belong to the Sherpa community; yes the very same community to which Tenzing Norgay belonged. They are not only strongly built but also very endearing! Hospitality runs through their veins and arteries I guess. The Sherpa lodge, run by the Sherpa brothers (well,  every person is a Sherpa here, so I don’t really remember their first names and they are a little too tongue-twisting to remember too)  is a very basic yet cozy place to stay in Okhrey. After a cup of chai, we headed to the hilltop boarding school. The teachers and students were equally receptive to the idea of talking to tourists. Also the fact that it was way past school closing hours helped, as they were all in a laid-back mood. The emphasis that the Sikkimese lay on education is unlike any other part of India. After almost an hour of an engaging conversation with one of the teachers, we decided to head back to the lodge. That was something struck me. I decided to do an impromptu story narrating performance. The children initially looked quite annoyed as I was actually eating into their daily TV time! But a handful of curious ones insisted I tell them the story. So, what started off as a simple narration for a bunch of kids soon grew into a proper performance with a decent sized audience. By the time I finished my story, almost the entire lot was around me. One of the most fulfilling moments in the recent times!!

We returned to the lodge after shopping in the only souvenir shop of the town adjacent to our complex. Oh man, that night was quite cold. At 8000 feet above MSL, we could sense a sharp dip in temperature. Huddled under our blankets, we dozed off, dreaming about the promises that the day next held for us.

The very cozy room at Okhrey

The hosts

The little village

A rhododendron bud

The lovely children at the residential school

He was as hospitable as the people.

So true!

Okhrey getting ready for the night. The mountains disappear. Literally.


To be continued...

Thursday, April 11, 2013

West Sikkim - Rendezvous with Rhododendrons #1 - The journey begins!


Ah! Here I am, finally, clicking on ‘New Post’. Life has been hectic this week, with piled up work to finish and errands to run, thanks to the vacation bang on the first week of the month. But, oh boy, no regrets there, as I've returned fully recharged, almost as if on steroids!  And the time is now ripe, in fact overripe to start my new travel series as promised. I've been maintaining the destination as suspense ever since I promised a new series and it’s about time to let the cat out of the bag.

TA DAAA! SIKKIM it is! West Sikkim, to be precise.

I’d been to Sikkim just a year back, covering East and South Sikkim (Nathula, Tukla range, Changu lake,  Namchi, Gangtok etc.) then. I must say, I was totally fascinated both by the place and the people. I also found that there is a lot more to explore in this tiny Indian state and ever since, I’ve been reading up quite a bit on the same.  That was when I stumbled upon an article about the Barsey Rhododendron trail. Miniscule efforts, magnanimous rewards – that was what Barsey in April was supposed to be. An easily doable trail with a gentle gradient, amidst the enchanting rhododendron spring blooms coupled with some stunning views of the Kanchenjunga. Hmm, this sounded exactly like my cup of tea. But who would I go with? My all time travel companion, my hubby, had already planned his trek of the year – Saurkundi pass sometime mid-April. So, for the first time, I decided to travel without family and find a women’s group to travel along with me. I posted my travel plan on FB, soliciting female travel companions, and believe it or not, there were over 20+ enquiries!(there are so many ladies itching to travel by themselves!) Last week of March, being the peak exam season, most ladies could not make it. So, it finally boiled down to a chic(k) group of three. Plans made, fingers crossed, breaths bated!

Finally the day arrived. I took my flight to Kolkata and from there, it was an overnight train journey to New Jalpaiguri(NJP station in the town of Siliguri). The plan was to meet at NJP.  And Mr. Murphy was nowhere in the scene. All the three of us arrived on time and met without much chaos or confusion.  And what’s more, the cab from Pelling was already waiting for us at the station! Sweet! Off we set to conquer the mountains….

(To be continued…)

P.S: Not too many photos this time, just a sneak-peek to keep you hooked J